November 8 One of a Kind in Ogallala

Hello Everyone,

Besides its western history, visitors to Keith County, Nebraska discover several one of a kind places to explore. Petrified Wood & Art Gallery, Keystone Church, Ash Hollow State Park, Ole’s, and The Most Unlikely Place Café and Art Gallery come to mind. All can be visited in a day or two.

PETRIFIED WOOD AND ART GALLERY

For those who are fascinated by petrified wood, a stop at Petrified Wood and Art Gallery is a must. Besides locally collected petrified wood, the Gallery displays wood from all western states, Brazil, Turkey, Madagascar, Australia, and Europe. All are polished. Many have been made into wonderful artwork by twin brothers Harvey and Howard Kenfield.

The Kenfields, now age 90, are often on hand to explain their work. Throughout their lives, they have brought true meaning to the term “Twin Togetherness.”

They were born in Albion, Nebraska on March 6, 1928. After high school graduation in Brule, Nebraska, they were drafted into the Army in 1951. They served together in the 24th Infantry Division during the Korean War before moving to Ogallala and working for Goodall’s, an electronics firm.

In 1953, they started collecting Indian artifacts which led to gathering petrified wood and learning how to cut and polish rocks. Since 1965, they have concentrated on their hobbies of turning petrified wood into art. They attended many gem and mineral shows and spent vacations hunting for petrified wood in western Wyoming.

Their first Petrified Wood Gallery opened in 1976 on land south of Ogallala where they built homes for their families. They retired in 1988 and opened the Gallery to the public. In 2000, the twins donated their collection to the Western Nebraska Community Foundation with the stipulation that their work remains in Ogallala. It was first moved to a Front Street location then relocated during the summer of 2011. The current building has a history as a skating rink, dance hall, and hardware store.

The Kenfields have created a prize winning collection of artwork. Their works depict, in miniature, Old West buildings representing those that they saw alongside the road. They also have made toadstools, flowers, and butterflies. All are produced from small pieces of natural-colored petrified wood accented by jasper and agate.

They work on their pieces together and have made more than 1,000 pictures, 70 of which are on display at the Gallery. Big ones take two months to make while they can create a barn in two weeks. The twins’ favorites are the music boxes. Each box depicts a building or scene mounted on polished wood bases and plays a tune representing that scene. All music boxes work.

I was impressed by the variety and number of gemstones they made into art. Signage on the wall relates how the twins make spheres and butterflies. You will also see gemstone eggs, toadstools, and a gemstone map of the United States.

The woods, stones, and vast amount of fossils make the Gallery into a showcase of natural history. Fossilized leaf and fish imprints, seeds, and such other specimens as petrified figs and pine cones are displayed. The Therizinosaurus egg from Hunan Province in China and dinosaur footprints are rare. Specimens are marked with their age, formation, and location.

The Turkish marble sculptures of five Native Americans drew my attention. These were of chiefs Spotted Elk, Red Cloud, Sitting Bull, White Cloud, and Wolf Robe.

The back room is home to Native American artifacts and Indian pictures which the Kenfields made from broken arrowheads. Visitors also discover paintings of Western Nebraskan wildlife and landscapes as well as bronze and wood sculptures. Look for an impressive display of 92 pewter figures of Native Americans, cowboys, and cavalry soldiers. Many of these works are from other area artists or “on-loan” exhibits from other collectors.

The gift shop features artwork from local and regional artists. At least five jewelry artists, some who are Dakota Sioux, have their work for sale. The Kenfields are still making barns to sell at this shop.

Visit Petrified Wood & Art Gallery at 418 East 1st Street in Ogallala. Their telephone number is (308) 284-9996. The Gallery is open year round but hours are seasonal. Visits and tours can be arranged by appointment.

KEYSTONE CHURCH

The Keystone Community Church, also known as the “Little Church,” is located in Keystone, an unincorporated village in sparsely populated ranch country. What makes it unique is that it’s the only church in the United States with a Catholic altar at its north end and a Protestant lectern at its south end. Pope Leo XIII gave special dispensation to allow a dual faith church.

Under the direction of Georgia Paxton, the wife of William A. Paxton, a prominent rancher and businessman, the King’s Daughters, a teenage girls club, conceived the idea of building a combined Catholic/Protestant church. The club raised $300.15 by holding bazaars, oyster suppers, and bake sales. Friends and neighbors raised the sum to $714.50. The Paxtons provided the balance necessary to raise the needed fund of $1,200 to start the church. Mr. Paxton ordered a carload of lumber from Omaha which was used to build the church and the library. Its dedication occurred August 16, 1908.

The one-story board-and-batten structure only holds 75 people as it measures 18 feet by 40 feet. Its entrance, instead of being at one of the gable ends, is in the middle of the side wall thus realizing the equality of the church being two centers of worship. The backs of the pews are hinged so that seating can be reversed, and the congregation can face either direction. During its years of use between 1908 and 1949, several denominations held services and revival meetings here.

Before the church was erected, the town had no house of worship. The nearest ones were on the opposite side of the mile-wide North Platte River, which at the time lacked a bridge. In 1916, a one-lane bridge was built across the North Platte River. This made travel easier.

Presbyterians used the “Little Church” until a new Presbyterian Church in Keystone was erected in 1925. Their last service was December 12, 1926. The last Catholic mass was held on October 13, 1929. The church’s members went to Ogallala after a Catholic church was established there. The Lutherans conducted services from 1926 to June 1949. A few revival meetings and short term services were held after that.

The church is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It was donated to the Keith County Historical Society in 2015, who renovated the property.

Today, the Catholics still hold an occasional mass while the Presbyterians conduct some services. Baptisms, weddings, and funerals sometimes occur, but nothing is held on a regular basis.

To reach the church, take Keystone Lake Road to McCarthy Street in Keystone and turn north. It’s the first building on the right (east) side. Admission is free, but free-will donations are gratefully accepted. It is open by arrangement with local guide Barb Meismer who can be reached at (308) 726-2006 or (308) 726-2482.

ASH HOLLOW STATE PARK

Picture being a pioneer on the Mormon, California, or Oregon trails. After traveling 400 miles, you notice an area with sparkling, clean spring water, a rock shelter, plenty of firewood, and grazing land for cattle and oxen. This is what the settlers found in the 1830's through the 1860's as their wagons descended the steep 25-degree slope, 300-foot Windlass Hill to the grove of ash trees growing in the Ash Hollow area.

Ash Hollow State Park became a state park in 1962. The surrounding area was named Ash Hollow Historic District in 1975.

It is still intriguing today. Located on the west end of Lake McConaughy, Nebraska’s second largest reservoir, the park lies three miles southeast of Lewellen on U.S. 26. It’s a stop worthy of several hours to hike any of the nine miles over four trails or picnic at the park’s 25 tables and two grills. You can also spend an hour at a visitor center full of geology, paleontology, history, Native American, and military exhibits. Those who wish to explore further can view a rock schoolhouse, the Rachel Pattison Grave at Ash Hollow Cemetery, Ash Hollow Cave, or the wagon ruts on Windlass Hill.

Ash Hollow Cave, named a National Historic Landmark in 1966, is found approximately 150 yards from the park’s visitor center. Early peoples, thousands of years ago, camped near the cave. Among these were the Dismal River People, who were ancestors of the Plains Apache. Less than 100 years after their departure, settlers came through the area.

During park excavations in 1939 and 1946, archaeologists studied the cave and identified several groups who have used the area over a period of 6,000 years. At least six different layers of artifacts (including projectile points, scrapers, knives, and beads), indicating distinct periods of occupation, were discovered. To protect the cave, an interpretative center has been built over its entrance. It is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. from May 1 through October 1 (subject to change in 2019).

Those who enjoy hiking can make a trek to Windlass Hill, located two and a quarter miles south of the visitor center. After following a walkway leading to the hill’s crest, they’ll be rewarded with a view of at least five deep ruts made by wagons over a century ago. They’ll find an interpretative shelter and signs along the walkway providing information on the area and its history.

You can view a 1903 rock school at the park’s southeast corner. It was made by some of the area’s first settlers. At the bottom of Windlass Hill, a sod house stands. It was constructed by the Lewellen Lion’s Club in 1967 for the Nebraska Centennial.

Another stop, though not really in the park, is Rachel Pattison’s Grave at Ash Hollow Cemetery. The 18-year-old died of cholera on June 20, 1849, after only being married three months. Her husband stayed behind to carve a stone marker then caught up with the rest of his family on the trail. The headstone is still preserved today.

At the visitor center, take time to view the 16-minute video tracing how man used Ash Hollow from prehistoric times through the mid 1800's. Then explore the extensive exhibits encircling the room.

The story is told from the times of prehistoric man through the fur trappers, explorers, pioneers, and gold seekers who traversed the area. You’ll learn about Robert Stuart, a fur trader who was sent by John Jacob Astor’s company out of Fort Astoria in Astoria, Oregon. In 1813, he was the first white man to view the Ash Hollow area.

From 1832 through 1843, the first wagons crossed and continued with the stampede of the 49er’s bringing many more. Emigration continued in the 1850's and 1860's to Utah and Oregon. It’s estimated that 400,000 to 500,000 emigrants passed through or by Ash Hollow on the Mormon, Oregon, and California Trails.

Native Americans lived in the area. Pawnee and Sioux artifacts are found in several of the museum's cases as well as a tipi on the floor.

Other cases relate the Battle of Ash Hollow which occurred in September 1855, one of the largest Sioux/cavalry engagements in the history of the nation. It was in retaliation to the Sioux annihilation of Lieutenant John Grattan and his 29 calvary members at Fort Laramie, Wyoming the year before.

A Mormon migrant’s cow had wandered into Sioux territory and been killed and eaten by a young Sioux. The migrant reported it as a theft. Grattan led his command into Sioux Territory on August 19, 1854 to arrest the thief. After an argument, Chief Conquering Bear was killed. In response, the Indians killed Grattan and his 29 men.

Led by Colonel William S. Harney, the United States Army with 600 troops from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas made a punitive attack on the Sioux village of Little Thunder in Blue Water Creek Valley. The dragoons advanced downstream while Harney and his infantrymen marched up the valley from the Platte River. The Indians, attacked from two directions, tried to scatter but not before the soldiers killed 86 people, wounded five, and took another 70 women and children captive. Four soldiers died while seven were wounded. You can view soldiers’ uniforms and relics from this battle also known as the Battle of Blue Water or Harney’s Massacre. The park overlooks the battlefield. In 1856, a peace treaty was signed.

The artifacts discovered at the battlefield were collected and taken to the Smithsonian Institute. In 2017, they were transferred to the cases at the visitor center for the first time. In 1855, the Army adopted a rifle that could kill at half a mile. It consisted of grooved shoulder arms with smooth bores. This U.S. rifle model, which was used at the battle, is on display.

The geology and paleontology of the area are also covered in exhibits. A case describes the area’s geological formation. It is composed primarily of stream transported sediments which are heavy with sand, silt, and volcanic ash. On display are actual bones of prehistoric mammoths, mastodons, and hippopotamuses. Fossils include mammals, reptiles, birds, and grasses such as soapweed. Their needle grass is the best preserved known. Fossil collecting is not permitted in the area.

Admission is $2 for adults and $1 for children under age 13. There is no admission fee for children under age three. The visitor center is open Tuesday through Sunday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily from May 1 to October 1 (subject to change in 2019).

Since 1993, the annual Ash Hollow Pageant has been staged at the park during the Friday and Saturday of Father’s Day weekend. The Pageant’s live outdoor performances relate stories taken from pioneers’ diaries traveling the Oregon-California Trail. Those attending also find live music and a chuckwagon supper cooked over an open campfire.

During the last Saturday in October, Haunted Halloween occurs. It features hayrides,
Trick-or-treating, food, and games.

To enter Ash Hollow State Park, you need a state park pass which costs $6 for Nebraska licenses and $8 for non-Nebraska ones. Annual passes are $30 for Nebraska licenses and $45 for non-Nebraska ones. These passes allow vehicles in any Nebraska state park. The grounds are always open year round. The telephone number is (308) 778-5651.

THE MOST UNLIKELY PLACE CAFÉ AND ART GALLERY

It’s unlikely to find an art gallery in a tiny town of around 200 like Lewellen. However, combine the gallery with a coffee shop, restaurant, music venue, gift shop, and gathering place and you have a handle on what the Most Unlikely Place is all about.

Four family members, three of them siblings, founded the site. Dennis Miller, Jr., a retired naval officer, is an artist and organic farmer. Although he took an art class at the University of Nebraska, he received most of his training from Autumn Art Workshops at Nebraska State Forest near Halsey, Nebraska and by studying art books and magazines.

He started with acrylics in 1993 but currently enjoys working with soft pastels. His favorite subjects are western Nebraska scenes and events. You’ll find his wife, Cynthia, serving as cook then delivering food while on roller skates to the cafe’s patrons.

His sister Jean studied at the University of Illinois in Chicago where she made frequent trips to the Chicago Art Institute. She traveled throughout the world - exploring Europe, working on an anthropological dig in Israel, then moving to Kenya where she earned her master’s of cultural anthropology at the University of Nairobi. Returning to Nebraska, she began a 35-year career as an artist. She primarily captures flowers, wildlife, people, and landscapes in oils though does some pastels. Jean has attended the Autumn Art Workshop at Halsey for 25 years where she serves on its board.

Rex Miller, Dennis’s brother, is into music as well as design and sculpture. He plays guitar, standing bass, and percussion with The Mooncats and Café Monkey; and does sculptures in wood, brass, marble, and etched glass. He also makes furniture, cabinets, and architectural features. I couldn’t help keep saying “Wow” about the work he showed me.

Besides their own work, they also sell jewelry, pottery, cards, and prints from local crafters and artists. They rotate art by western Nebraska artists on a monthly basis and also sell books by Nebraska authors. Speakers make regular appearances.

The last Saturday of every month, WMUP Radio does a live variety show from the café. A meal is served with the show. The family tries to have two monthly dinner shows highlighting a live musical group. You might find Rex and his friends playing Irish folk tunes, blues, or jazz during supper or a pianist entertaining at a special dinner.

The building has become a coffee shop and restaurant. Decor is a myriad of old tables and chairs in different styles, brightly colored walls, and paintings hung salon style all over the walls. Most of the artwork is for sale.

The breakfast features eggs from roaming chickens, including sandwiches and omelettes, oatmeal with raisins and honey, cinnamon rolls, gluten-free muffins, and toast made from oat and honey bread.

All lunch entrees are $8.95. As much fresh, local, natural foods as possible are used with products from their farm and garden behind the store dominating the menu. Fruity chicken salads are offered on homemade sourdough toast, beer bread, oat nut toast or on greens, Others are BBQ beef or a French dip sandwich on kaiser buns. You might find beer cheese soup or shepherd’s pies in season. Vegetarian and gluten free options are available. Youngsters can order grilled cheese or mac and cheese. The dessert on the menu is raspberry pecan chocolate cake. We had lunch here, and it couldn’t have been more delicious.

The building has a fascinating history, too. It started as a playhouse and silent theater. When a new theater was built, it became a community center where revival meetings, dances, and basketball games were held. It later became a plant to process locally mined silica for cosmetics. For most of its history, until 1972, it was a grocery store. At that time, Paul Temple, a long time friend of Dennis, bought the building. He rented out the two storefronts for a variety of purposes while painting signs and restoring old cars in the back. After he died in 2009, the Millers purchased the property and spent much time renovating this building.

Dennis and Rex have repaired and upgraded other buildings on Main Street then converted them to various purposes. The Old State Theater has been rented out to an insurance agent and serves as a storage place for milled wood. They purchased a sawmill so Rex could turn fallen trees into beautiful wood frames for the family’s artwork. An old hotel, that used to house a restaurant and bar, serves as Rex’s woodshop while an old Chevron filling station is now Blue Water Gallery for the Ash Hollow Art Club.

The Most Unlikely Place Café and Art Gallery is located at 205 Main Street in Lewellen, Nebraska. The telephone number is (308) 778-9557. They are open for breakfast and lunch Wednesday to Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. They are closed mid November through mid March.

OLE’S BIG GAME STEAKHOUSE & LOUNGE

It’s hard to decide whether Ole’s in nearby Paxton, Nebraska is a steakhouse or a taxidermy museum with its 200 mounts. With the giant polar bear that Ole bagged in Siberia in 1969 greeting you inside the front door and the massive elephant overlooking your shoulder while you dine, you quickly say, “It’s both.”

Prohibition ended on August 8, 1933. At 12:01 a.m. on August 9, Rosser O. Herstedt (Known as Ole) opened a tavern on Paxton’s main street. Here Ole and his friends, all avid outdoorsmen, swapped stories about their hunting endeavors. In 1938, Ole bagged a large whitetail buck. It was the first mount hung on the walls of his establishment.

Over 35 years, until 1973, Ole traveled on hunts to every continent in search of exotic game. Trophies, photographs, and other artifacts from these hunts hang on the walls above bar tables and booths. They include a moose from Canada, a black bear from Alaska, a red fox from England, and a python from Honduras. Half are from North America with many from Africa. He always returned to the little town of Paxton where he was born and raised.

When he retired in 1988, at the age of 87, he decided to close his bar and sell the mounts to the Springs family of Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. They were longtime friends of his who had fished and hunted with him several times a year in the area. They intended to start a bar and steakhouse to display Ole’s collection. Construction plans were underway to move to South Carolina.

Since Tim Holzfaster, a Paxton native, was a boy, he had been enthralled by the animals he saw and the tales he heard at Ole’s. At age 28, Tim learned about the plans and asked if it was true that Ole couldn’t find anyone local to buy the business. He immediately told Ole he would buy the building and collection and keep it in Paxton. A few weeks later, Tim purchased the business and the Springs family plans were cancelled.

Under Tim’s leadership, the lounge has been expanded to become Ole’s Steakhouse and Lounge. But he didn’t stop there.

Tim bought the adjacent Swede’s Bar and the Cheetah Lounge retaining much of their decor and furnishings. He did open the walls between the three side-by-side lounges, greatly expanding Ole’s seating capacity. He also restored the large dance hall above Swede’s which he rents for prom parties, weddings, dances, banquets, and meetings. Ole, who died in 1996, must be smiling down at Tim’s success.

The food is as delicious as the atmosphere is delightful. Steaks, prime rib, and burgers feature Nebraska corn-fed beef. Their burgers took third place in the “Best Burger in the State” contest sponsored by the Nebraska Beef Council. The menu doesn’t stop there as sandwiches, salads, chicken, pork, pastas, fish, and shrimp are all available.

Food is simple with chicken fried steak being the number one seller at dinner. Tim tries to use local ingredients wherever they can. Ole’s chefs make their own chilis, sauces, and brownies. They have breakfast, children’s, and carry out menus.

You’ll find Ole’s Big Game Steakhouse & Lounge on Main Street. The telephone number is (308) 239-4500. It is open every day but Christmas. Breakfast is served at 7:00 a.m. with the main dining room opening at 10:00 a.m. They serve food Monday through Saturday until 10:00 p.m. and on Sunday until 9:00 p.m. However, they are normally open until 11:00 p.m. Dress is casual with no reservations necessary. Prices are moderate.

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